Any Audiophiles onboard?

Your preamp should always be first in the chain. Whatever shit comes after is up to you.

So something like this right?

Onkyo TX-NR656 to the a Emotiva Audio BasX PT-100 Stereo preamp/DAC/Tuner, then to the BEHRINGER ULTRAGRAPH PRO FBQ1502HD, then to the Crown XLi2500 Two-channel Power Amplifier then off to the Cerwin vega XLS15's?

Last Edited by Van #22 on 10/10/2018 12:35 PM

Ok, thanks, that's what I thought.

Look on your mixer. It Should have a built in preamp. That's always first in the chain

I would suggest whatever order the hardware is on your consoles channel starting with preamp. You should just mimic

The receiver only has a "Zone 2" for the pre-outs, so I can send that to the preamp I can only amplify that channel, but I can run with zone 2 only or simultaneously with the other channels on the receiver to match the wattage, just only zone 2 would be amped, so at lower levels I could match everything.

Pre amp is to boost your signal voltage.

OK guys, I think I get it now, thanks.

Why do I need a mixer? What am I going to mix?

The Onkyo TX-NR656 seems to be an AV Receiver. You don't need anything to go with that except the speakers.

If you have pre-out and then in, then you might stick a tube device in the middle, like an X-10D for better sound.

Only Audio's over 18 for me thanks.

All depends what kind of music you are listening to.

It is very difficult if not impossible to have proper sound reproduction of a pipe organ 32 foot pipes.

My cornerhorns do pretty good. In the past, I've noticed that some notes take so much space to develop, that they can only be heard around the corner, down the hall instead of in the listening room.

Preamp and AD/DA conversion. Your front-end essentially is what matters most.

UAD Apollo Twin is an excellent choice.

Plus you can use their plug-in library which is unparalleled in fidelity to the original hardware they emulate.

With the Univesal Audio plugin emulations of preamps, you can literally just run a HI-Z line in, and then run it through Neve, SSL, API preamp emulations and they are fucking bang on.

Even the engineers who own the golden units they modeled can't tell the difference in double-blind A/B tests.

[link to www.uaudio.com (secure)]

The guy is running an Onkyo Receiver. Why? I don't know. But the rest is superfluous if he's going to do that. Maybe he should get the Onkyo out of the lineup.

Yeah I would just run a line straight out of an awesome HD audio interface with high quality files like 48khz 24-bit

All I say is:

"Tranconductance"

have a look at my blog: [link to www.ts-finecircuits.de]

If you are new to this and don't have a lot of change to blow just go with a Rotel integrated amp (no pre amp) and some inexpensive B&W speakers (bookshelfs are fine).

You'll be 5,000 miles ahead of Sony in one whack, for less than $600. Don't forget that cell phones and MP3's are not a good signal source. You'll have to figure out how to feed that amp and speakers what you want to hear in an appropriate way.

There is absolutely nothing wrong at all with a small Rotel amp that has an integrated pre- amp. That's the first solid step you can make into audiophile that will be a well respected step that won't break the bank.

I develop waveguide speakers and have several excellent models that have been marketed. I am an actual audiophile.

If you want to get in for minimum bling, you can't buy my stuff but the two items I mentioned are PRIME.

Not any more LOL!
[link to www.soundandvision.com (secure)]

If'n you got the cash that is...

Probably Good advice. I've heard nothing but good about Rotel. an integrated amp makes great sense. B&W I don't know anything about.

Have you got a good design to go with the Dayton 8" neodymium full range speaker? Back horn loaded? something back loaded.

Very Interesting. I'm going to read your Blog, or at least try. You're over my head, but that's how I learn. Comments on TI TPA3116 chip?