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Anonymous Coward User ID: 77377605 United States 12/09/2019 09:27 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 78237507 sticking valves or valves not closing completely , very common when you put a higher lift cam in it without putting stiffer valve springs in as well. since the cam is compressing the springs further than designed for, they will weaken and break if you're not sure of the firing order check it manually with the valve covers off. The rotor in the distributor should be pointing to the spark plug wire that goes to the cylinder on which both valves are closed. If it isn't, simply unplug the wire from the spark plug and route it to the right one. Once you get the firing order correct have someone crank the engine while you turn the distributor slowly through it's adjustment range until it starts, then use a timing light too get it perfect. There should be timing mark on the harmonic balance or front crankshaft pulley and a marking on the block to line it up with. if the timing keeps changing even though you're not turning the distributor replace the timing chain, it's stretched I put on a brand new timing chain and all the pumps are new everything is new even the crankshaft I appreciate everything you've done When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 75282507 United States 12/09/2019 09:29 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 75282507 No chance I'll ever but the "fill for life" nonsense! It's simply bologna! and while my wife is now driving a 2015 Audi SQ5 I'm still not about wasting money on Manufacture BS! That's why I'm asking! Why do you think they got rid of the dipsticks? Because people couldn't leave well enough alone and manufacturers found their warranty claims dropped when they stopped giving people access to the fluid. You're going to give yourself an expensive headache. One thing about being cheap is knowing when there is a time to be cheap. This ain't it. You can't honestly believe that ANY fluid is good for 200k? This car is something we'll keep till paid off. So knowledge is power. And to your point, once past their WARRANTY PERIOD, they don't give a shit about your trans or otherwise. but they'll gladly charge you 10k for a rebuild. the transmission fluid on a modern automatic transmission is good for the life of the trnsmission. if it is ruined, the transmission ruined it, meaning replacing the fluid will not fix it and might make it slip, i speak from extensive experience I rebuild transmissions and that's nonsense! The reason many transmission fail, is because the oil is NEVER CHANGED. As such, the oil becomes gritty and helps clutch action. Once that fluid is changed, the grit is gone, causing clutch failure. People that regularly change their fluid and don't abuse their shit get 300k plus. I speak specifically about GM transmissions here. Those that never change their oil will not make 300k PERIOD! Oil breaks down and it's really that simple! LIFETIME fluid is meant to live the life of the manufacturers Warranty, nothing more! Imagine a Manufacturer making a fluid that is good for 300k miles. Yeah f'ing right! |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77846618 United States 12/09/2019 09:29 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Hey OP, one more question on that 92 Subie Legacy Wagon. I know the transmission is shot, but when I turn the wheel left or right and try to accelerate the car "sticks" and the wheels are no longer "free spinning." It'll lurch (like the axle is stuck or something) until I straighten out the wheels and then it moves forward smoothly again. Is that the transmission or is there and issue with something else maybe? Quoting: Anonymous Coward 78233473 That's AWD, right? That sounds like the center differential is having trouble. If there's a viscous clutch, they tend to lock up. The older Grand Cherokees would do that and drag the tires in turns. Question: How often do you recommend adding fuel additive to the gas tank? |
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Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/09/2019 09:33 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: CosmicFire Thank you. I'm just screwing with him. Sometimes you have to give them what they're asking for. Now, did you replace the harmonic balancer? Yes Sir The Machinist even balanced the crankshaft with the new flywheel which is a standard 4 speed in my Ford F-350 Now, when you get time, find #1 cylinder, take the plug out and using a coat hanger or long skinny screw driver drop it in the cylinder until it hits the piston. Turn the engine over by hand until the rod/screwdriver stops coming up. Find the very top of the piston travel and check your balancer's timing mark with the pointer on the timing cover. It should be right on. Then take the cap off the distributor. The rotor tip should be pointing at #1 tower. Also if the distributor isn't at #1, take your rod out and give the crank another turn, and recheck it. You want to mechanically verify your timing mark at 0 TDC is correct and your distributor is at #1, ready to fire. |
Halfbreedgal User ID: 69797353 United States 12/09/2019 09:34 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I have a 99 jeep Cherokee ...136k miles...lately the dials stop working suddenly, then start again, including the speedometer...airbag light comes on too...on and off...does this mean my alternator needs replaced? There are many new things on my jeep, including new battery...alternator is original , however. Thanks |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77307194 United States 12/09/2019 09:40 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/09/2019 09:43 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | 2012 Subaru Forester, 4 cylinder. Fantastic vehicle, reliable, great in the snow we get, etc. However...since I've had it when I go out in the garage at night, and let's say the vehicle has been off and sitting for several hours, I sometimes here what I'll call a "whirring" or rapid "clicking sound" from the engine compartment. Vehicle has always started fine, always run fine but it's like something is still "running" intermittently long after it's been turned off for the night. Ideas? And thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer. Even though the car is off, the PCM will periodically fire up and perform tests on the engine controls and emission systems. If it performs a throttle blade check those can be noisy, and is what you likely are hearing. |
300BLK
User ID: 77973966 United States 12/09/2019 09:43 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 78237507 if you're not sure of the firing order check it manually with the valve covers off. The rotor in the distributor should be pointing to the spark plug wire that goes to the cylinder on which both valves are closed. If it isn't, simply unplug the wire from the spark plug and route it to the right one. Once you get the firing order correct have someone crank the engine while you turn the distributor slowly through it's adjustment range until it starts, then use a timing light too get it perfect. There should be timing mark on the harmonic balance or front crankshaft pulley and a marking on the block to line it up with. if the timing keeps changing even though you're not turning the distributor replace the timing chain, it's stretched I put on a brand new timing chain and all the pumps are new everything is new even the crankshaft I appreciate everything you've done When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle Ok, Do you have any indication of air/fuel ratio, especially to help indicate accelerator pump performance and power valve (or metering rods if Carter/Edelbrock) vacuum point? You could be lean. In the past, I bought a digital air/fuel ratio gauge and a single wire oxygen sensor (and an exhaust bung if needed) to see real time A/F ratios. Reading plugs doesn't tell you much about anything except wide open throttle and it's tough to get there if you are having problems before that. 300BLK |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77471814 United States 12/09/2019 09:43 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 75282507 United States 12/09/2019 09:46 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 75282507 No chance I'll ever but the "fill for life" nonsense! It's simply bologna! and while my wife is now driving a 2015 Audi SQ5 I'm still not about wasting money on Manufacture BS! That's why I'm asking! Why do you think they got rid of the dipsticks? Because people couldn't leave well enough alone and manufacturers found their warranty claims dropped when they stopped giving people access to the fluid. You're going to give yourself an expensive headache. One thing about being cheap is knowing when there is a time to be cheap. This ain't it. You can't honestly believe that ANY fluid is good for 200k? This car is something we'll keep till paid off. So knowledge is power. And to your point, once past their WARRANTY PERIOD, they don't give a shit about your trans or otherwise. but they'll gladly charge you 10k for a rebuild. Those transmissions don't get rebuilt. They get replaced, but you're correct on the cost. So what kind of oil do you want to put in a $10k transmission? The filter is made into the pan bottom and that's a few hundred dollars too. Here's a service kit. [link to www.ebay.com (secure)] Happy trails. I'd rather spend $400 to maintain the trans, while doing it with the most cost effective oil that meets the requirements of the Manufacturer ;) Appreciate the replies. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 13358554 United States 12/09/2019 09:52 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I purchased a brand new Toyota Camry in 2015. It's got a V6 in it but it doesn't have enough power (for my taste) to quickly get on the freeway and to pass other cars on a two lane highway. My car has 27,000 miles on it. I've been thinking about putting an aftermarket turbocharger on it. I'm also thinking about getting dual exhaust put on it. Also is there a high performance chip I can put in it? How much will these performance upgrades cost me? P.S. I know this sounds crazy as hell (and it probably is) but for reasons you may not be able to understand, this is something that I really want to do. Thanks for your time and help! |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/09/2019 09:53 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77377605 I put on a brand new timing chain and all the pumps are new everything is new even the crankshaft I appreciate everything you've done When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle Ok, Do you have any indication of air/fuel ratio, especially to help indicate accelerator pump performance and power valve (or metering rods if Carter/Edelbrock) vacuum point? You could be lean. In the past, I bought a digital air/fuel ratio gauge and a single wire oxygen sensor (and an exhaust bung if needed) to see real time A/F ratios. Reading plugs doesn't tell you much about anything except wide open throttle and it's tough to get there if you are having problems before that. :this1: This fellow is spot on! |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77846618 United States 12/09/2019 09:59 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | 06 caravan. Drive for a few miles and pull into a parking lot and coolant gushes onto the ground for a few seconds then stops. I havnt been present for this but it seems to happen at random. Have to add a gallon of coolant every 2 weeks. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77307194 I can even answer that one...A hole in the radiator and going to get bigger until you replace it or go buy Stop Leak. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/09/2019 10:02 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I purchased a brand new Toyota Camry in 2015. It's got a V6 in it but it doesn't have enough power (for my taste) to quickly get on the freeway and to pass other cars on a two lane highway. My car has 27,000 miles on it. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 13358554 I've been thinking about putting an aftermarket turbocharger on it. I'm also thinking about getting dual exhaust put on it. Also is there a high performance chip I can put in it? How much will these performance upgrades cost me? P.S. I know this sounds crazy as hell (and it probably is) but for reasons you may not be able to understand, this is something that I really want to do. Thanks for your time and help! That's not a slow car... Money wise, you'd be better trading it for a Charger R/T. Turboing a FWD V6 is difficult, and then you're looking at durability issues with the transmission. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 13358554 United States 12/09/2019 10:15 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I purchased a brand new Toyota Camry in 2015. It's got a V6 in it but it doesn't have enough power (for my taste) to quickly get on the freeway and to pass other cars on a two lane highway. My car has 27,000 miles on it. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 13358554 I've been thinking about putting an aftermarket turbocharger on it. I'm also thinking about getting dual exhaust put on it. Also is there a high performance chip I can put in it? How much will these performance upgrades cost me? P.S. I know this sounds crazy as hell (and it probably is) but for reasons you may not be able to understand, this is something that I really want to do. Thanks for your time and help! That's not a slow car... Money wise, you'd be better trading it for a Charger R/T. Turboing a FWD V6 is difficult, and then you're looking at durability issues with the transmission. Oh, okay. I understand. The boost in torque and horsepower will shred the tranny. I didn't think of that. :/ Well, how about dual exhaust and a high performance chip. Perhaps those two things will give me a nice boost? How much will those two upgrades cost me? God bless you,man, and thanks in advance for your help! |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/09/2019 10:25 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | 06 caravan. Drive for a few miles and pull into a parking lot and coolant gushes onto the ground for a few seconds then stops. I havnt been present for this but it seems to happen at random. Have to add a gallon of coolant every 2 weeks. Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77307194 I can even answer that one...A hole in the radiator and going to get bigger until you replace it or go buy Stop Leak. Could be the water pump. Have a look to see if it's dropping off the engine or the front of the car under the radiator. |
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SoberLife
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Anonymous Coward User ID: 76598333 United States 12/10/2019 12:10 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | 2001 chevy suburban Quoting: Anonymous Coward 75886671 Battery went dead After new battery, sunriof stock in vent open mode. Tried physically jumping the connector behind the switch, motor wont budge. I think the computer is telling it not to work but i cant even get ut to reset by holding the vent button in for 30secs when key is turned on. Anyway to get rhe computer to recalibrate? if its a gm , the best thing you can do is junk it and get a ford. these vehicles re noted for weird electronic glitches than no one can ever figure out, like the infamous burning out running light on the front I hope yer not op, you sound dumb as a post. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77377605 United States 12/10/2019 12:11 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | The Machinist even balanced the crankshaft with the new flywheel which is a standard 4 speed in my Ford F-350 Now, when you get time, find #1 cylinder, take the plug out and using a coat hanger or long skinny screw driver drop it in the cylinder until it hits the piston. Turn the engine over by hand until the rod/screwdriver stops coming up. Find the very top of the piston travel and check your balancer's timing mark with the pointer on the timing cover. It should be right on. Then take the cap off the distributor. The rotor tip should be pointing at #1 tower. Also if the distributor isn't at #1, take your rod out and give the crank another turn, and recheck it. You want to mechanically verify your timing mark at 0 TDC is correct and your distributor is at #1, ready to fire. Yes Sir it is we took it out several times |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77377605 United States 12/10/2019 12:13 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77377605 I put on a brand new timing chain and all the pumps are new everything is new even the crankshaft I appreciate everything you've done When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle Ok, Do you have any indication of air/fuel ratio, especially to help indicate accelerator pump performance and power valve (or metering rods if Carter/Edelbrock) vacuum point? You could be lean. In the past, I bought a digital air/fuel ratio gauge and a single wire oxygen sensor (and an exhaust bung if needed) to see real time A/F ratios. Reading plugs doesn't tell you much about anything except wide open throttle and it's tough to get there if you are having problems before that. This would give me a backfire through the carburetor when I rev It Up? |
Halfbreedgal User ID: 72513764 United States 12/10/2019 12:17 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |