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Anonymous Coward User ID: 53069355 United States 12/10/2019 04:00 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 53069355 higher boost pressure with any given configuration equals more power..this guy is full of shit. while it is true reducing restrictions will increase power and lower boost pressure with any given supercharger setup, if you put a smaller pulley on the supercharger you'll have more boost and thus more power with the less restricted engine Smaller pulley is ordered, boost went down just after headers were installed, had to pull f-ing engine to deal with broken exhaust stud, that only took weeks !! gezuz. the next time you have a rusted exhaust manifold bolt or stud that wont turn try getting it loose with the engine hot, sometime it makes just enough difference you can get it out. if not, have fun, steel studs rusted into cast iron are a bitch Steel stud in aluminum, our other truck broke the same stud, had to pull motor on it also, Toyota’s trucks are easy to work on thankfully.My 19 year old kid has been a mechanic for two years now at a dealership in town, he’s tired of working on cars by the time he gets off work lately. i hate working on cars, if it's a hobby it's fun, but when you have to do it for a living for long you get over it. i worked in the oilfield as a mechanic, welder and eventually shop manager because i could make more money doing that than working as an engineer. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78232967 Sweden 12/10/2019 04:01 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77449541 United States 12/10/2019 04:46 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/10/2019 05:32 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Have you ever had women offer to trade their naughty bits in exchange for repairs? Quoting: Anonymous Coward 13358554 If so, please tell us your best stories. If not, tell us your best stories how you turned them down. Well there was a porn star who had a Dodge Viper. She lived down the street from the shop so I was told to give her a ride home as the repairs to her car were going to take a while. We pull up to her door and she looks at me and says "So, you gonna come inside?" Didn't even smile. I said "I'd better not, I'm the one working on your car." She looked at me like I just grew a second head and got out of the car. Halfway back to the shop I realized she left her phone in the car so I went back and was greeted to her in a towel. I honestly thought she was going to yank me inside. Somehow I made it back to the car unscathed. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/10/2019 05:38 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | 96 Ranger 2.3 liter. Has spark knock even with mid grade gas. Has complete tune up, also sea foamed the top.end. Installed 180 degree thermostat. Still bad pinging. Possibly the MAF sensor? Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77457727 Yup. Our old 94 Ranger 4.0 pinged like crazy on mid grade so we always put premium in it. One day it just stopped and wouldn't restart so after nosing around a bit I unplugged the MAF and it started up after that. I replaced the MAF, then one day put regular gas in without thinking. It would have rattled it's brains out before the MAF, but it didn't make a peep after that. |
Larry D. Croc
User ID: 70736097 United States 12/10/2019 05:42 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | 2012 Subaru Forester, 4 cylinder. Fantastic vehicle, reliable, great in the snow we get, etc. However...since I've had it when I go out in the garage at night, and let's say the vehicle has been off and sitting for several hours, I sometimes here what I'll call a "whirring" or rapid "clicking sound" from the engine compartment. Vehicle has always started fine, always run fine but it's like something is still "running" intermittently long after it's been turned off for the night. Ideas? And thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer. Even though the car is off, the PCM will periodically fire up and perform tests on the engine controls and emission systems. If it performs a throttle blade check those can be noisy, and is what you likely are hearing. That's a relief, thanks. "Socialism only works in two places: Heaven where they don't need it and hell, where they already have it." Ronald Reagan The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so." Ronald Reagan |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/10/2019 05:49 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77973966 United States 12/10/2019 05:49 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: 300BLK When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle Ok, Do you have any indication of air/fuel ratio, especially to help indicate accelerator pump performance and power valve (or metering rods if Carter/Edelbrock) vacuum point? You could be lean. In the past, I bought a digital air/fuel ratio gauge and a single wire oxygen sensor (and an exhaust bung if needed) to see real time A/F ratios. Reading plugs doesn't tell you much about anything except wide open throttle and it's tough to get there if you are having problems before that. This would give me a backfire through the carburetor when I rev It Up? Yes, it is something that could cause it and it sounds like you have went through about everything else. Assuming overall running mixture is good, then the accelerator pump is not adding enough fuel as the main jets flow is naturally delayed when you are opening the throttle plates (fuel has more mass than air and the main jets need time to catch up). Most carbs have a linkage adjustment for small changes but you may need more. |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/10/2019 05:56 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77377605 The Machinist even balanced the crankshaft with the new flywheel which is a standard 4 speed in my Ford F-350 take your rod out and give the crank another turn, and recheck it. be careful who you piss off, jackoff. some people take it personally and there was no need to be an asshole I and others appreciate your help, you do clearly have experience. But taking swipes at me and name calling isn't going to provide a solution for the people needing help. If we disagree on something we can discuss it like professionals, right? |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/10/2019 06:01 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Larry D. Croc
User ID: 70736097 United States 12/10/2019 06:04 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | "Socialism only works in two places: Heaven where they don't need it and hell, where they already have it." Ronald Reagan The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so." Ronald Reagan |
Anonymous Coward (OP) User ID: 77640440 United States 12/10/2019 06:13 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 53069355 higher boost pressure with any given configuration equals more power..this guy is full of shit. while it is true reducing restrictions will increase power and lower boost pressure with any given supercharger setup, if you put a smaller pulley on the supercharger you'll have more boost and thus more power with the less restricted engine Smaller pulley is ordered, boost went down just after headers were installed, had to pull f-ing engine to deal with broken exhaust stud, that only took weeks !! gezuz. the next time you have a rusted exhaust manifold bolt or stud that wont turn try getting it loose with the engine hot, sometime it makes just enough difference you can get it out. if not, have fun, steel studs rusted into cast iron are a bitch Steel stud in aluminum, our other truck broke the same stud, had to pull motor on it also, Toyota’s trucks are easy to work on thankfully.My 19 year old kid has been a mechanic for two years now at a dealership in town, he’s tired of working on cars by the time he gets off work lately. The Hemi's break studs all the time. Piece of cake with an aluminum head. Scratch the stud up with an awl, get the welder and build up a tit on the broken stud enough to hang a 5/8 nut on. Then fill the nut with weld and let it sit about a minute as the heat works into the stud. Get a wrench and slowly turn it back and forth until you can spin it out. Sometimes the nut breaks off and you have to try again, but it's a lot faster than drilling. |
Golfcart User ID: 77110102 United States 12/10/2019 08:58 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Golfcart 77110102 Smaller pulley is ordered, boost went down just after headers were installed, had to pull f-ing engine to deal with broken exhaust stud, that only took weeks !! gezuz. the next time you have a rusted exhaust manifold bolt or stud that wont turn try getting it loose with the engine hot, sometime it makes just enough difference you can get it out. if not, have fun, steel studs rusted into cast iron are a bitch Steel stud in aluminum, our other truck broke the same stud, had to pull motor on it also, Toyota’s trucks are easy to work on thankfully.My 19 year old kid has been a mechanic for two years now at a dealership in town, he’s tired of working on cars by the time he gets off work lately. The Hemi's break studs all the time. Piece of cake with an aluminum head. Scratch the stud up with an awl, get the welder and build up a tit on the broken stud enough to hang a 5/8 nut on. Then fill the nut with weld and let it sit about a minute as the heat works into the stud. Get a wrench and slowly turn it back and forth until you can spin it out. Sometimes the nut breaks off and you have to try again, but it's a lot faster than drilling. Oh we tried the weld method with no luck, broke many drill bits, broke an easy out in the middle of stud, had to drill around that, then helicoil. When a stud breaks, it is a sentence of pulling engine, foul language usually follows. |
Golfcart User ID: 77110102 United States 12/10/2019 09:09 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Toyota 5zfe 3.4 (non supercharged) stumbles on take off. Replaced crank position sensor and improved from barley running, but still stumbles from stop. Seems to run fine once going, maybe it misses a little? No check engine light. Sorry, I bet you’re busy on a Tuesday morning... |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78164028 United States 12/10/2019 09:11 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Toyota 5zfe 3.4 (non supercharged) stumbles on take off. Replaced crank position sensor and improved from barley running, but still stumbles from stop. Seems to run fine once going, maybe it misses a little? No check engine light. Sorry, I bet you’re busy on a Tuesday morning... Quoting: Golfcart 77110102 Replace the crankshaft sensor and the two cam shsft timing ones as well. Then, after it is running perfectly, drive it off a cliff and do humanity a favor. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78164028 United States 12/10/2019 09:12 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Toyota 5zfe 3.4 (non supercharged) stumbles on take off. Replaced crank position sensor and improved from barley running, but still stumbles from stop. Seems to run fine once going, maybe it misses a little? No check engine light. Sorry, I bet you’re busy on a Tuesday morning... Quoting: Golfcart 77110102 Replace the crankshaft sensor, and the two cam shaft sensors as well. Then, after it is running perfectly, drive it off a cliff and do humanity a favor. |
LilMiss
User ID: 5145151 United States 12/10/2019 09:22 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 76598333 United States 12/10/2019 09:23 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Hey opee i’ll try again: 2001 suburban 2500 4x4 Sunroof stuck in open “vent” position after battery replacement Will a shop with more advanced obd diagnostics be able to reset it? Or is the only way to close to remove headliner and manually close? Its getting tiresome driving around with blue harbor freight tarps flapping in the windstream (its loud and pieces are ripping off) |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78164028 United States 12/10/2019 09:23 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Blue State Rebel
User ID: 73724632 United States 12/10/2019 09:50 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | I think you may have missed me. Quoting: Blue State Rebel Is there really any good way I can get the rust off my lovely 2002 Buick Century (myself)? On the body below the doors. Or repair rust damage? I've heard putty might work? I love this car but I can't afford to have them do the rust again - last time they just did a crappy job. I won't be able to afford another car for another couple of years. Thank you! You need to cut it out and weld plates in. Putty (what we call "bog") is just a bandaid solution. Good primer and coating afterward. If not a coated area then spray on fish oil can mitigate further corrosion (no joke it works) fiberglass "tiger hair" can work if you get all of the rust out before you slather it on. if you bondo or fiberglass over any rust it will immediately rust out again, but if you do what we used to do and use wire mesh for a form and do it carefully it can last for ten years..the best way is to weld in new rocker panels The owner of a Buick century doesn’t sound like some one to weld in body panels or anything close to proper body work, no offense...just clean the windshield and call it good, wait, don’t even do that and just watch TV. Hey, don't diss my mighty little Century, LOL. You're right though, I'm probably not gonna be putting on any welding masks myself but at least I know the extent of what needs to be done. |
Golfcart User ID: 77110102 United States 12/10/2019 09:58 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Toyota 5zfe 3.4 (non supercharged) stumbles on take off. Replaced crank position sensor and improved from barley running, but still stumbles from stop. Seems to run fine once going, maybe it misses a little? No check engine light. Sorry, I bet you’re busy on a Tuesday morning... Quoting: Golfcart 77110102 Replace the crankshaft sensor and the two cam shsft timing ones as well. Then, after it is running perfectly, drive it off a cliff and do humanity a favor. OUCH! Did a 3.4 “touch” your pee pee when you were younger? I’m sorry man... anyway, I’ll take the advise, ( about the sensors) Cliff idea is on hold for I hate ALL of humanity..... |
Golfcart User ID: 77110102 United States 12/10/2019 10:03 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 78238609 You need to cut it out and weld plates in. Putty (what we call "bog") is just a bandaid solution. Good primer and coating afterward. If not a coated area then spray on fish oil can mitigate further corrosion (no joke it works) fiberglass "tiger hair" can work if you get all of the rust out before you slather it on. if you bondo or fiberglass over any rust it will immediately rust out again, but if you do what we used to do and use wire mesh for a form and do it carefully it can last for ten years..the best way is to weld in new rocker panels The owner of a Buick century doesn’t sound like some one to weld in body panels or anything close to proper body work, no offense...just clean the windshield and call it good, wait, don’t even do that and just watch TV. Hey, don't diss my mighty little Century, LOL. You're right though, I'm probably not gonna be putting on any welding masks myself but at least I know the extent of what needs to be done. Thanks for not being offended, I was just profiling. Just keep up on the rest of the car, try not to put too much money into it then buy a Toyota celica next time. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78210598 Romania 12/10/2019 11:44 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77017255 United States 12/10/2019 11:44 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78210598 Romania 12/10/2019 12:01 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Easy way to check a vacuum leak , other than spray can? Quoting: Anonymous Coward 78210598 jerky deceleration/accel only between 1800/2100 rpm , 1.6 gas engine 2005 nissan could it be the oxigen sensor? for jerky accel /decell in the cold season a gas smell is present on first start.( no somke on the tailpipe/ no error codes ).code engine is qr16de.60k .In those years i have changed just sparkplugs/oil/filters/bulbs/tires . I drive it more like a rally car , due to low hp i use to accelerate to 6500rpm in the first gear. Thank you |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 78210598 Romania 12/10/2019 12:03 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Easy way to check a vacuum leak , other than spray can? Quoting: Anonymous Coward 78210598 jerky deceleration/accel only between 1800/2100 rpm , 1.6 gas engine 2005 nissan could it be the oxigen sensor? for jerky accel /decell in the cold season a gas smell is present on first start.( no somke on the tailpipe/ no error codes ).code engine is qr16de.60k .In those years i have changed just sparkplugs/oil/filters/bulbs/tires . I drive it more like a rally car , due to low hp i use to accelerate to 6500rpm in the first gears. Thank you |
Blue State Rebel
User ID: 75491368 United States 12/10/2019 01:55 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 53069355 fiberglass "tiger hair" can work if you get all of the rust out before you slather it on. if you bondo or fiberglass over any rust it will immediately rust out again, but if you do what we used to do and use wire mesh for a form and do it carefully it can last for ten years..the best way is to weld in new rocker panels The owner of a Buick century doesn’t sound like some one to weld in body panels or anything close to proper body work, no offense...just clean the windshield and call it good, wait, don’t even do that and just watch TV. Hey, don't diss my mighty little Century, LOL. You're right though, I'm probably not gonna be putting on any welding masks myself but at least I know the extent of what needs to be done. Thanks for not being offended, I was just profiling. Just keep up on the rest of the car, try not to put too much money into it then buy a Toyota celica next time. Thank you - I'm coming into some money in a couple of years so I can buy a new (used) one. (I'd never buy a new car). It's definitely gonna be a Toyota. We've always had Buicks but my hubby's car is now a Toyota and it's just a wonderful car. We do have some problems with the Toyota defogger though - when we put on the heat, it gets all foggy. Like we can't run the heat and the defogger at the same time. |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77377605 United States 12/10/2019 02:55 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Anonymous Coward 77377605 I put on a brand new timing chain and all the pumps are new everything is new even the crankshaft I appreciate everything you've done When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle Ok, Do you have any indication of air/fuel ratio, especially to help indicate accelerator pump performance and power valve (or metering rods if Carter/Edelbrock) vacuum point? You could be lean. In the past, I bought a digital air/fuel ratio gauge and a single wire oxygen sensor (and an exhaust bung if needed) to see real time A/F ratios. Reading plugs doesn't tell you much about anything except wide open throttle and it's tough to get there if you are having problems before that. It's a brand new Edelbrock 650 carburetor |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77377605 United States 12/10/2019 09:27 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: 300BLK When is it firing back through the manifold (idle)? Are you using a distributor with vacuum advance and if so are you running it off the timed vacuum port on the carb? No I plugged off the timed advance and it pops at speed not at idle Ok, Do you have any indication of air/fuel ratio, especially to help indicate accelerator pump performance and power valve (or metering rods if Carter/Edelbrock) vacuum point? You could be lean. In the past, I bought a digital air/fuel ratio gauge and a single wire oxygen sensor (and an exhaust bung if needed) to see real time A/F ratios. Reading plugs doesn't tell you much about anything except wide open throttle and it's tough to get there if you are having problems before that. It's a brand new Edelbrock 650 carburetor |
Anonymous Coward User ID: 77843162 United States 12/10/2019 09:58 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |