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| 08:57 PM | ||
| Users Online Now: 2,141 (Who's On?) | Visitors Today: 1,026,349 | |
| Pageviews Today: 1,907,047 | Threads Today: 919 | Posts Today: 16,649 |
| 08:57 PM | ||
Any Toyota mechanics here... | |
DeploraVision ™
 User ID: 80115680  United States03/22/2021 05:54 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Did you check ball joints and control arms? Quoting: McDonald Trunalimunumaprzure 1) Probably. The bearing for sure is a goner and maybe the axle overheated too 2) Replaced all of those last year (albeit with non-OEM parts lol) and should be ok. Will double check though. OP, why are you putting Chinese made parts on a Japanese vehicle?  Comments have been disabled. |
| allentownchemtard
User ID: 79301220 United States03/22/2021 05:55 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
| BRIEF
User ID: 79662918 United States03/22/2021 05:56 PM  Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
| allentownchemtard
User ID: 79301220 United States03/22/2021 05:57 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
| 83toy
User ID: 77659889  Canada03/22/2021 05:57 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Seabass69 I think you are on to something...3 smokey and melted hub assemblies later I'd imagine something else could've been cooked too. If the caliper is sticking to the rotor, it would generally pull to that side...I assumed you are not having "pulling" issues... Now that you mention it, the truck was pulling to the left a bit and when I hit the brakes it pulled a lot harder to the left. Would the caliper be sticking to the rotor because the rotor got warped from heat or? Yeah, the excess heat is cooking your bearings...Fix your brakes... Even crappy aftermarket hubs will last at last 1 year, so i would suspect something else such as above your brakes causing this. No way you can go through 3 hub bearings that fast |
| allentownchemtard
User ID: 79301220 United States03/22/2021 05:57 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
| Justme C'est Moi
User ID: 80059579 United States03/22/2021 05:59 PM  Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
| biden_sucks_ass
User ID: 79368880 United States03/22/2021 06:12 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | |
| Anonymous Coward User ID: 80166373 United States03/22/2021 06:12 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Is it a unitized hub and bearing? Quoting: CosmicFire The bearing relies on the clamping force of the CV axle shaft to keep the unit assembled. If the CV axle is stretched or damaged, then the nut may torque to spec, but the proper clamp load isn't applied to the bearing races and it'll destroy itself in short order. I believe it is. Good info. So in that scenario I'd be looking at replacing the CV axle and then reinstalling new hub assembly, being careful to not over torque the axle nut? Yep. Unless you can identify why it isn't clamping the unit. There could be a sleeve or washer missing. I'd look for a youtube vid and watch close. What year and model Toyota?  I have factory service manuals for Toyota pickups from 1989 - 1995. Been some time since I have done wheel bearings, but you need to put a spring gauge on it to test pre-load and endusure adequate movement before final torque. [link to 4x4wire.com] The preload on the outer bearing has to be set. To do so, using either a 54mm or 2 1/8" socket and a torque wrench, torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs. After setting it to this torque, spin the rotor/hub assembly each direction several times, then back off on the adjusting nut until you can turn it by hand. Then set the torque wrench to 18 ft. lbs. and torque the adjusting nut. Toyota recommends that the rotor preload should be set to 12.6 ft. lbs. This can be accomplished with a spring gauge, or a fish scale. [link to 4x4wire.com] |
| biden_sucks_ass
User ID: 79368880 United States03/22/2021 06:18 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Seabass69 I think you are on to something...3 smokey and melted hub assemblies later I'd imagine something else could've been cooked too. If the caliper is sticking to the rotor, it would generally pull to that side...I assumed you are not having "pulling" issues... Now that you mention it, the truck was pulling to the left a bit and when I hit the brakes it pulled a lot harder to the left. Would the caliper be sticking to the rotor because the rotor got warped from heat or? Yeah, the excess heat is cooking your bearings...Fix your brakes... caliper piston stuck in bore biden sucks ass FUCK JOE BIDEN |
| Anonymous Coward User ID: 80166373 United States03/22/2021 06:19 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | you caliper is sticking lmfao. replace both rotors, sets of pads and the bad 3rd bering. Quoting: allentownchemtard lol.....yeah a warped rotor would cause issue. Under packed bearing will also. He probably cooked it after the first failure. It's just as inexpensive to buy new rotors than have them turned and ground, believe it or not. |
| biden_sucks_ass
User ID: 79368880 United States03/22/2021 06:20 PM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | Is it a unitized hub and bearing? Quoting: CosmicFire The bearing relies on the clamping force of the CV axle shaft to keep the unit assembled. If the CV axle is stretched or damaged, then the nut may torque to spec, but the proper clamp load isn't applied to the bearing races and it'll destroy itself in short order. I believe it is. Good info. So in that scenario I'd be looking at replacing the CV axle and then reinstalling new hub assembly, being careful to not over torque the axle nut? Yep. Unless you can identify why it isn't clamping the unit. There could be a sleeve or washer missing. I'd look for a youtube vid and watch close. What year and model Toyota? I have factory service manuals for Toyota pickups from 1989 - 1995. Been some time since I have done wheel bearings, but you need to put a spring gauge on it to test pre-load and endusure adequate movement before final torque. [link to 4x4wire.com] The preload on the outer bearing has to be set. To do so, using either a 54mm or 2 1/8" socket and a torque wrench, torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft. lbs. After setting it to this torque, spin the rotor/hub assembly each direction several times, then back off on the adjusting nut until you can turn it by hand. Then set the torque wrench to 18 ft. lbs. and torque the adjusting nut. Toyota recommends that the rotor preload should be set to 12.6 ft. lbs. This can be accomplished with a spring gauge, or a fish scale. [link to 4x4wire.com] modular hubs dont adjust like that biden sucks ass FUCK JOE BIDEN |
| BRIEF
User ID: 79662918 United States03/23/2021 08:51 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: BRIEF If the caliper is sticking to the rotor, it would generally pull to that side...I assumed you are not having "pulling" issues... Now that you mention it, the truck was pulling to the left a bit and when I hit the brakes it pulled a lot harder to the left. Would the caliper be sticking to the rotor because the rotor got warped from heat or? Yeah, the excess heat is cooking your bearings...Fix your brakes... caliper piston stuck in bore Maybe...The brake hoses can check-valve, causing the same issue...One must perform tests... I never forgive and I never forget I am a licensed firearm holder. I will, under protection of law, use lethal force if attacked.  |
| Anonymous Coward User ID: 77017255 United States03/23/2021 11:41 AM Report Abusive Post Report Copyright Violation | ... Quoting: Seabass69 Now that you mention it, the truck was pulling to the left a bit and when I hit the brakes it pulled a lot harder to the left. Would the caliper be sticking to the rotor because the rotor got warped from heat or? Yeah, the excess heat is cooking your bearings...Fix your brakes... caliper piston stuck in bore Maybe...The brake hoses can check-valve, causing the same issue...One must perform tests... Yeah. The RF on my '89 was doing that so I swapped them out. The truck thanked me with a leaking wheel cylinder in the back. Needy thing. |
