Gardening Journal - Post your gardening updates here

Never had rats before, this year we did. We dumped a few bags of dried chilis by the fencing and they left, or died.

It’s too late to start again...so next year we’ll try again.

They didn’t touch the parsley or celery, so we still have those which is nice.

Another medicinal xeric herb you'll find out in West Texas to southern Kansas, Oklahoma, and eastern New Mexico is Marrubium Vulgare.

Ran across this beauty the other day. If you upon some, take some cuttings for tea and tinctures.

I can't think of a better remedy for coughs and bronchial conditions than this old standby known as Horehound.

A xeric plant not native to America but Asia. However, after generations it has been naturalized here and will grow well in desert and arid conditions.

This one will be going in the garden next season.

[imgur] [link to imgur.com]

Old man's beard near Texas border.

A good find today.

This is an herb recommended in Scudder's specific.

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I should have stayed specifically that this species is Clematis Drummondi.

Found it at about 4600ft. Should do ok below that.

Old Man's Beard (Clematis drummondi) is directly related to Clematis virginiana. Clematis is indicated especially in venereal disease and in many ailments of the generative organs. It has been used as a remedy for both epilespy and rheumatism.

Like its relative Pulsatilla, it also appears to be a powerful nervine agent useful in calming cases of frenzied mania and nervousness.

This allusive woody flower is worth more investigation.

[imgur] [link to i.imgur.com (secure)]

Related plants to Clematis are Monkshood and Larkspur species. The former contains the alkaloid Aconitum and the latter the alkaloid Dephinine. Clematis has been shown to contain the alkaloid Aporphine, which probably explains its nervine characteristics in calming epilepsy and nervousness.

Didn't do too bad with this little Indian maize experiment. Out of the 30 plants I planted, I got 23 ears that actually were keepers.

And wouldn't you know, I forgot the old saying, and true it is. Had some that got the ergot in them, and a few the crows got into.

Four seeds to the row, one for the rook, one for the crow, one will rot and the other will grow.

And ain't it the truth.

Still, 23 ears out of 30...I'll take those numbers. Have a much better idea how this little corn species likes to grow now.

https://imgur.com/tNlxs9l

https://imgur.com/a/6juyg64

I have a big crop of Roma tomatoes so I have been making tomato sauce. Also,I have a crop of carrots that will be ready in November.

Nice. :-)

I didn't do any tomatoes this year.

I was doing my Datura to make my medicinal tincture this autumn, so I figured I had enough Solanaceae in the mix.

Cherokee Pumpkins are coming along. You'll know they're ready when they fully turn a nice brownish tan color and the stems turn fully brown. Should be ready to pick around end of October on this bunch. They don't get very big like a Jack-O-Lantern pumpkin. About the size of a winter squash, but they're good pie and baking pumpkins. They can also keep a long while if you leave the stems long when you cut them. A great storing pumpkin.

https://imgur.com/a/wmqJnje

https://imgur.com/a/YhIOCR9

Last Edited by 923 on 10/03/2021 03:08 PM

I've counted several winter squash coming on, but they're late bloomers and I don't think this bunch will be ready till end of October.

https://imgur.com/a/xoYIQQK

The Rancho Marques pumpkins are getting big. They're starting to go ahead and ripen up. I think I'll be able to cut them at crossquarter (November 7). Give them another week and a half or so unless we have a freeze come in.

These did really well out here as they are already adapted to a semi-desert climate.

https://imgur.com/a/FBfwY4d

https://imgur.com/a/lQmFzo2

Well, folks, that is it for this season. Bringing in the rest of the Cherokee and Rancho Pumpkins along with the Lavender, Datura, and wild Dill. It's about to turn cold.

You'd think gardening would be over till spring, but actually this is just where it begins. Time to get the corn knife out and mulch up the stalks. I have herbs that need to be in the ground by winter solstice so they can go through cold season to be ready for first sprout at Spring Crossquarter.

These pumpkins will make some good puree to can.

https://imgur.com/a/Z6et1HR

Last Edited by 923 on 11/26/2021 03:13 PM

So, back to square one. Got up about 7:30 and started shredding corn stalks and tree leaves from the yard. All pumpkin stems and leaves have been rotated into the mulch pile.

Will be adding more shredded leaves in December as they continue to fall.

I'm going to go ahead and get the Mandrake seed in the ground today as it will need to rest of autumn and all winter as a cold season to be ready to sprout in the early season.

https://imgur.com/a/I6An6al

This list can have additions to it as the winter planning season progresses, but for now I have a very solid core plants list. This list is specially aimed at US desert southwest environments and all the plants on this list are xeric friendly.

Some of these represent modifications of medicinal plants found in Dr Scudder's 4th edition of Specific Medicine and Specific Medication. I have searched long and hard this year to put together an apothecary garden along with some staple vegetables that will work well in arid to semi-arid regions.

SHORT LISTS OF PLANTS FOR 2022 SEASON


Broccoli Raab (Brassica rapa) - fast growing, drought and cold tolerant broccoli substitute.

Cherokee Tan Pumpkins (Curcubita moschata) - the most disease resistant, heat tolerant, and best tasting baking and roasting pumpkin you will find.

Desert Larkspur (Delphinium wootoni) - used as an Aconite (Delphinine) substitute in place of Monkshood. The two alkaloids are chemically nearly identical and have comparable effects upon the blood pressure. The plants are also related as they are both Ranunculaceae as are Clematis and Helleborus.

Desert Onion (Allium macropetalum) a xeric onion requiring no watering. Very strong onion flavor.

Desert Greenthread Tea/Navajo Tea [Ch’ilgohwéhí’deí] (Thelesperma subnudum) - there are many varieties of Greenthread teas that were used by the Navajo, Hopi, and other tribes. This particular one is native to New Mexico. Find which Greenthread varieties grow in your area.

Desert Thornapple (Datura discolor) - used as an Atropine substitute for Deadly Nightshade (Atropa belladonna)


DiMeglio Arugula (Eruca sativa)

Fernleaf Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Indian Tobacco (Nicotiana quadrivalvis [an extremely low nicotine content ceremonial tobacco cultivated by native Americans tribes in the desert southwest and west coast. Note: this is not the highly toxic and deadly species of wild tobacco called Nicotiana trigonophylla].

Ki'Kam Hun (Pima 60 day Zea mays [Hopi Flint Maize]) - a 60 day flint corn variety that requires no watering and grows only with seasonal summer monsoon rains.

Mandrake (Atropa mandragora autumnalis from Israel as it does well in arid to semi-arid zones from the middle-east to Turkey) - as potent a source of Atropine as Atropa belladonna and will grow in extremely arid conditions.

Narrowleaf Milkweed (asclepias fascicularis) - an important medicinal herb discussed by Scudder and an important nectar source for migrating monarch butterflies and other pollinators. This variety is adapted to xeric environments and needs no watering.



New Mexico Mealycup Blue Sage (Salvia farinacea) - the only true Salvia native to New Mexico.

New Mexico Unicorn Plant/Devil's Claw (Proboscidea spicata [a wild desert relative of Okra and may be prepared and eaten as Okra] - requires no watering and will actually die if you water it. Grows only with summer monsoon rains. A tru xeric/desert vegetable.

Mrs. Burns' Famous Lemon Basil (Ocimum basilicum) - a drought hardy cultivar of Basil.

Munstead Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) - an extremely drought tolerant variety of English lavender and on Dr Scudder's medicinal tinctures list.

Pioneer's Tea (Ephedra trifurca) - It is a remedy in cold, flu, and bronchitis. Reportedly, it is a remedy in variety of venereal diseases especially syphilis, which gave rise to its name of Whorehouse tea.

Tepary Beans (Phaseolus acutifolius) - A true xeric bean species that can be and is to be dry farmed. This variety is not to be watered. It grows only with seasonal monsoon rains.

Texas Virgin's Bower/Old Man's Beard (Clematis drummondi) - our desert and southwest variety of Dr Scudder's Virginia Virgin's Bower. It likes high desert and mountains. I saw none growing below 4500ft. We'll see if it will take to 3900ft where I am. It is a xeric plant that can survive on only occasional rains, but it does like altitude

White Horehound (Marrubium vulgare) - a strong medicinal tonic influence on all mucus membraines. Useful in cold, flu, cough, bronchitis and easing stomach pains. Horehound coughdrops have a centuries' long history in the pharmacy. Also, a completely xeric herb. Being part of the mint family, it basically represents a desert mint and can substitute for mint in xeric environments. Use together with Navajo/Hopi Greenthread tea for a powerful medicinal tonic.

Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) - on Dr Scudder's medicinal tinctures list and grows great in nearly any arid environment.

Last Edited by 923 on 11/29/2021 06:00 PM

The Back to Eden method of mulching may be especially important in arid to semi-arid regions.

We're wanting to conserve and harness those short lived monsoon rains as much as possible and there's no better way but to turn the winter off season into the mulching season. You cannot get too much mulch on a xeriscape plot.



Last Edited by 923 on 11/28/2021 06:37 PM

Was out taking a walk before the drive today. I'm in far eastern New Mexico and wouldn't you know it I stumbled across a big patch of Ephedra trifurca.

This species does in fact contain both Caffeine and Ephedrine in the stems It also happens to be in seed so I'm taking some seed back for the garden. It is a real tea and has stimulant effects comparable to black tea, or coffee.

It appears to be effective against cold and flu. I wonder how it does on Covid. For example, the active ingredient in Sudafed is pseudoephedrine (a synthetic form of the natural Ephedrine in Ephedra trifurca and other species. It is a very real and very effective antihistamine.

Here in Gage, we're at 4522ft. So it likes high desert.

I keep a few harvesting baskets in the truck, so I'm taking a bunch of this stuff back to make medicinal tea.

Ephedra trifurca (Gage, NM) 11-29-21

https://imgur.com/a/36un5zJ

Last Edited by 923 on 11/29/2021 12:34 PM

Two quick updates in the winter planning phase:

I'm trying out Scutellaria drummondii (Texas Skullcap). This southwestern semi-xeric variety is drought tolerant and is adapted to west Texas and southeastern New Mexico climates. I've tried other Skullcaps, and they just don't grow well in arid regions. So, this will be a good solution. Plus, Scudder and the eclectic herbalist schools of the 19th century raved about the many uses Scutellaria. Got these on order last night when I was reworking the list.

Also, I'm going with our native variety of Artemisia frigida instead of Artemisia absinthium. Absinthe Wormwood can get very big and prolific if you don't watch it very carefully. Furthermore, our frigida variety of wormwood has all the same medicinal properties with none of the risk of absinthe poisoning, or tripping out. I wanted a wormwood on the apothecary list, but I think frigida will work much better, and it is definitely better for making native American smug sticks for incense and home sanitation.

Artemisia frigida - N 285 above Roswell

https://imgur.com/a/jw0xMf2

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/12/2021 01:55 PM

Another one I'm starting to look at real hard is our desert Croton setigerus (Dovewart). I never would have imagined that this little Croton plant, according to Scudder, has one of the best means of opening up nasal passages during cold, flu, or pneumonia through its seed oil.

His ratio is 1 part Croton seed oil to 5 parts olive oil to be used as a neck and chest rub.

This plant is fully xeric and wouldn't be a problem as a small addition to the medicinal section.

Croton setigerus (Dovewart) - Vaughn, NM

https://imgur.com/a/iLUkgBF

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/12/2021 01:45 PM

This year I've got some Hopi orange pumpkin seed on order (a very old domesticated variety from the southwest). I'm wanting the drought hardiness of a Hopi orange hybridized with the portability of a Cherokee tan. These two varieties will easily hybridize. By the end of this next season, I want to have a nice hybrid between the two that will do better in a low water xeric environment.

Also, instead of spending hundreds of dollars on Groasis Waterboxes, I'm going to catch the monsoon rains this year with an old Hopi Indian technique known as the olla. They are ridiculously easy to make and will make irrigation next to unnecessary.

There seems to be a big resurgence of olla use in southwestern gardening especially this coming year as we have been in the current extended drought. We didn't get out average of 14 inches this year and most of it was concentrated in the July monsoon.

Instead of watering more, let's water smarter. Pumpkins especially will be able to extract water from these clay pots. Pumpkins and squash are even able to take in moisture through their leaves.




Do ollas really work? Yep, they sure do and Hopi NS/S Education Coordinator Melissa Kruse-Peeples shows us exactly how they work and how to cheaply make them.

[link to www.nativeseeds.org (secure)]

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/13/2021 03:53 PM

Winter is the season when we're really thinking about mulch and planning next season's bed.

I think the Back to Eden method is great in so many ways. It's really opened the eyes of many to layering techniques found in nature.

Here's the thing though; it doesn't go to the blatantly obvious step of just using pine needles, even though it began the very principle by using the action of pine needles in the forest.

Some say that mulching with pine needles will lower your soil PH. Not quite true, actually. If it did, it would kill the forest. When pine needles break down to the point where they are going to begin amending your soil, they have a 7 PH, or exactly what most plants need.

So, why don't pine needles kill the forest? Because they aren't rototilled into the soil, but lie on top of the soil and slowly break down.

Will they do the same in your garden while keeping in moisture and protecting against weeds? Absolutely. Why wouldn't they?

Therefore, why not just make this completely easy and go with pine needles? Wouldn't that be a lot more cost effective than wood chips? I can drive 40 miles from the house and get all the 'mulch' I will ever need in one step. And I bet that even if you don't have an evergreen forest nearby, you can find an affordable solution just with pine needles.

The only trick is to not rototill them into the soil. Just lay a few inches on top as a mulch and slowly build the quality of your soil. Yes, I'm saying that even fresh green pine needles can be an effective mulch as long as they lie on top of the soil and slowly break down like they do in the forest. Just do what the forest does and you'll get the results the forest gives.

If you absolutely cannot get pine needles, you may consider using pine or cedar dust.

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/14/2021 03:23 PM

Two more I'm adding to the list that I think will do well out here are

Erigeron (Canadian Fleabane, Conyza canadensis) as the go-to hemorrhaging remedy in any and all cases of blood loss. Dr Scudder lists the many varied cases of hemorrhaging that he was able to remedy with this most useful variety of fleabane. I've already seen Canadian fleabane growing wild in this county, and it will be a good addition.

Also, I was wanting a good Echinacea, but after trying out Echinacea purpurea this year, I'm going with its more xeric-friendly cousin Echinacea tennessensis. Instead of using Echinacea in its dietary supplement form, this will be turned into a strong tincture useful in most cases involving boils to insect and snake bites. It's most pronounced use in the 1800s was as a sure remedy for syphilis and gangrene outbreaks. A must-have in the apothecary. Dr Scudder states that if gangrene is caught early, Echinacea is a sure remedy.

Echinacea tennessensis was put on the endangered species list in America because so many people were harvesting it as it was so readily available even in semi-arid regions. This species of Echinacea is a serious cash-crop. I'm not doing it as a cash crop, but as a most valuable addition to the medicinal garden.

https://imgur.com/a/kr0HgZC

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/14/2021 02:27 PM

I tried their wood chip method after watching the Eden documentary.

Here, the power company leaves piles of woodchips around after they clear along the lines. I found some, probably 3-year old chips and started a small new garden on bare ground for herbs.

The herbs did nothing short of amazing in the woodchips; six foot high dill, e.g.

Late in the fall I found another huge pile, maybe 5 years old. It will be the basis of my whole garden this year.

If you can get wood chips that have had time to age and break down a bit, you have a gold mine.

If your chips are more recent, go ahead and do a half and half blend with some locally sourced manure.

I'm going to try aged pine needles instead of wood chips and see what I can come up with.

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/14/2021 02:51 PM

I might just add that Erigeron canadensis is by no means a "pretty" herb except pretty ugly. Other varieties of fleabane are also useful against hemorrhaging, it's just in this space saving experiment, Canadian Fleabane is better as it grows up instead of out.

Erigeron canadensis (Canadian Fleabane) effective against ulcerative colitis and hemorrhaging

https://imgur.com/a/jXEAaSb

Started my winter greens & salad garden weeks late, but with the near constant Mid-South late season heat, even today (72F), things are nearly growing out of control. Best winter greens garden ever!

Adding to the mulch pile today. By January I'm wanting this pile to be about 3 times as big as it is now. I'll be adding more green and brown matter as I see bags of yard debris set out on the curbs. This is a real easy way to gather a lot of compost material. The free and lazy way.

Our simple formula to breaking down compost is 1 part green matter to 2 parts brown matter over winter.

In our area, I'm not really even going to get going planting until May as we have a very specific summer monsoon season that you kind of need to work with especially if you're doing rain collection and ollas. Of course, you can also grow right on up into mid-November here.

Green matter doesn't have to be green, either. I'm using local steer manure as "green matter" and it's about the best green matter you could get as the steers have already done 90% of the work for you. Mix in layers with your browns and let that winter cure.

https://imgur.com/a/Hlj9MGP

Last Edited by The_Gardener on 12/17/2021 02:30 PM

your urine will heat up the compost so dont be afraid to let it be included.
people are PAYING for the stuff..its called urea and plants love it.
we manufacture urea as well.

keeps deer and other animals away if they smell MAN..needs to be replaced after rains.

You're exactly right.

Technically, urine is green matter and though I didn't mention it, I do in fact collect it in pots and dump it on the pile. Anything to get that bacteria to start activating is a good idea.

Thanks for the tip. :-)

Old greens scraps, egg shells, and fruit peals are all green matter too. Throw em on the pile.