Bought a 61 Buick Skylark 2 door!

I have the gasket set oil pump kit timing set conrod bearings so far thank you

Kroil and mouse milk are two different kinds of penetrating oil. I guess the immersion heater would speed up the process of loosening up the seized up parts.

Kroil oil is on the way but a little bit late for the party LOL. I have everything apart now [link to imgur.com (secure)]

I do appreciate it though and I have to look up this Mouse stuff that you are talking about LOL

And it seems like that distributor would be a whole lot less expensive I would just have to figure out how to wire it up

All you need for an HEI distributor is a switched 12v positive. But you can't use the wire that used to go to the points, it's only about 9v to keep from burning the points. It will work, but the spark won't be as strong.

I swapped an HEI into my old truck to replace the points, it was like a different engine.

All the wiring for the HEI is already on it, between the distributor and the cap. All that's left is the 12v positive and a terminal for a tach.

Man I appreciate it wiring is not my forte. I hate to ask it is there some way you can give me a Illustrated diagram of that how to wire it and I also want to be able to put in a distributor with points in case of an EMP

I'll see what I can dig up.

Meanwhile, do you have a test light or a voltmeter? Because really all you need to do is find a fuse in the fuse box that's hot when the key is on. Put a fuse tap on that and hook it to the HEI.

You can roll up the original 12v positive for the points coil, tape it off, and it will be there when you need it.

There's some diagrams out there but also some bad info as I just found out.

I'm going to toss this out there on the voltage supply for the HEI.

I'm not sure about the skylark, but in those days, GM used a ballast resistor on many of their cars. On the input side was (ign, switched) battery voltage, on the output side was +/- 10 volts. The ceramic resistor is always under the hood, either on the firewall or the core support, in my experience.
FORD used a resistance wire, with a fiber coating.

I don't think it was fused. Of course, a water resistant inline fuse between it and the HEI terminal would work, if a fuse is desirable. (I'd coat the terms with dielectric grease, for engine compartment use)

[link to www.amazon.com (secure)]

There is great advantage to contact point ignition.

There IS no hidden magical piece of silicon.

You can SEE it all, make it happen.

I hate "electronic" ignition.

Just another way to make people NOT understand what's really going on.

My only issue with retrofitting using a system as reliable as HEI, is finding high tension wires that fit the Dist. cap terminals and have plug boots that wont overheat or burn and short on the exhaust manifold.

The ceramic ballast resistor was on Chrysler products, I believe GM also used a resistor wire, that's why I said to use a switched 12 volt positive.

HEI is so much better than points, just the voltage increase is enough reason to swap, and the lack of maintenance. When I ran points I had to check the dwell every month.

I don't think there's any trouble finding reliable plug wires that fit just fine. Though I would avoid the cheapest ones, some are no good right out of the box.

Appreciate everyone. I was wrapping the simple idea of 12 volts off the key and then it started getting complicated quick LOL

I remember having a dwell meter and years ago actually I still have a GM spring loaded screwdriver to set the dwell which is actually point angle and it was between 28 and 32 and we'd always set it at 30 LOL

Having a little trouble with double posting and my other phone is giving me a fit right now I recently bought a brand new laptop for the first time ever in my life and I think I've used it twice LOL I use my

You might have a slow connection, just give it a little time after you hit post and see if it goes.

Got my book out. The manual does say to pack the oil pump with Vaseline or it may not prime.

Specs
1961 4bbl- 185 hp @ 4600 rpm and 230 lbs torque @ 2800 rpm with 10.25:1 compression
1963 4bbl- 200 hp @ 5000 rpm and 240 lbs torque @ 2400 rpm with 11:1 compression

In 1961, the 2bbl 215 used 8.8:1 compression, but the following years all had 10.25:1 for either the 2 or 4bbl.

Only the 1963 4bbl has 11:1 cr.


If you want a higher compression ratio you need either the pistons for '63, or a performance piston to go beyond 11:1.

It's interesting there's no camshaft specs listed, they must've all had the same cam. Chevy probably has 12 different cams just for the small block. I would bet my book there's a performance cam available.

The ole book is falling apart, I'll probably just leave it open for a while. lol

Is it too late to cancel the order on the rings and all? That $760 deal looks pretty good, then you'd just need a cam if you're replacing that.

That kit has high cr pistons, piston pins, rings, crank/rod bearings, cam bearings, oil pump kit, timing set, and all the gaskets, with free shipping.

Apparently that cam fits the 215, 300, and 340 Buicks. There's a wide selection of different grinds and brands, like Crower, Isky, online at Jeg's, Summit Racing, and eBay. $200-380.

Wow man thank you for all the information

You can tune the ignition advance to run the 11:1 on 87.

I've done it long ago.

Need strict absolute mechanical advance hard limit, not just running out on against springs and weights, which flutter pulling Revs.

Ok ...Cool .Thanks ...

I kind of wishing I would have took this deal

Was also planning on using four row radiator

Sir? Kind of wondering what book you have maybe I can find it on eBay

Good plan.
Always go for thickest radiator core.
180 degree is still best compromise for power/mileage.

Factory set everything really rich in those days and there's a lot of power to be gained by running them leaner than original.

Oil will stay cleaner, plugs will build up less deposits.
Exhaust systems won't rot out as fast.

Often it's as simple as setting the carb floats down a small amount, like 3/16 of an inch....may not even need different jets or metering rods.

180 ...ok Thanks .don't know if I might get an edelbrock carb or no.seems 500 cfm about rt. Might see if I can clean up the original. Its buried I still didnt look at make lol .Anyhow Appreciate it

Last Edited by bro tim on 12/05/2022 10:04 PM

It will scream with a 500 cfm 4-bbl.
Edelbrock has what is basically the old Carter AFB/AVS, and will give great torque on the 2 barrel and still let the cam breathe.

The small primaries will give crisp throttle response.

Don't screw up putting on a carb with too-high a CFM rating.
Unless you plan on full time racing.

Cool ...Thanks for the info my friend....

Motor's Auto Repair Manual 1964 ...it's a blue book with gold lettering. I found 4 or 5 right away just now and didn't go all the way down the page.

You still might be able to return the other rings and bearings, just don't open the package. Probably have to pay shipping, which shouldn't be a lot.

I'll have to go back and look at that rebuild kit listing, I don't recall seeing any sizes listed.

There was another thread earlier talking about a Charger 500, the thread got deleted. Don't know why, hope this one doesn't get zapped.